The Safarniac Project - Ultimate African Safari

sa-far-ni-ac [suh-fahr-nee-ak]

2013-10-27T11:18:00.001-04:00

noun

A crazed, intemperate, overly zealous, enthusiastic, animal-loving person whose day is defined by the visual consumption of African wildlife videos and highly opinionated commentary on safari message boards:

…during an internet outage the mourning howls of safarniacs who were unable to get their safari fix could be heard around the globe…

adjective

safarniacal

How to use this website!

It is very simple. The latest itinerary and map follow below. To see the details of the final itinerary, use the Itinerary Menu on the RIGHT! To see how and why we decided on the current itinerary, use the Design Menu on the right!

100-day Safarniac Safari Itinerary
(in development - version 1)
January 1, 2012

The idea is to visit every area as close to its prime time as possible! This particular itinerary is for an unlimited budget - meaning it is for those who want the best in life and who can afford to pay for it.

I plan to offer 2 more similar itineraries - one for an upscale budget and another for a medium budget. This itinerary will be challenging to do on a shoe-string budget unless one has intimate knowledge of the public transport options in each of the countries - not my specialty.

4-Jul- Uganda Jinja

5-Jul- Jinja - Nile river rafting

6-Jul- Ngamba Island - Chimpanzee walk

7-Jul- Rwanda Parc des Volcans or Uganda Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

8-Jul- Parc des Volcans - Gorilla Trek Bwindi Impenetrable Forest - Gorilla Trek

9-Jul- Parc des Volcans - Gorilla trek Bwindi Impenetrable Forest - Gorilla Trek

10-Jul- Tanzania Ngorongoro

11-Jul- Ngorongoro

12-Jul- Mahale

13-Jul- Mahale Chimpanzees

14-Jul- Mahale Chimpanzees

15-Jul- Mahale Chimpanzees

16-Jul- Katavi

17-Jul- Katavi

18-Jul- Katavi

19-Jul- Central Serengeti

20-Jul- Central Serengeti

21-Jul- North-East Serengeti

22-Jul- North-East Serengeti

23-Jul- North-West Serengeti
24-Jul- North-West Serengeti
25-Jul- North-West Serengeti

26-Jul- Selous

27-Jul- Selous

28-Jul- Selous

29-Jul- Kenya Amboseli

30-Jul- Amboseli

31-Jul- Laikipia

1-Aug- Laikipia

2-Aug- Laikipia

3-Aug- Masai Mara Migration

4-Aug- Masai Mara

5-Aug- Masai Mara

6-Aug- Masai Mara
7-Aug- Masai Mara

8-Aug- South Africa Johannesburg

9-Aug- Johannesburg

10-Aug- Zimbabwe Victoria Falls

11-Aug- Victoria Falls

12-Aug- Hwange

13-Aug- Hwange

14-Aug- Hwange

15-Aug- Mana Pools

16-Aug- Mana Pools - Canoe Trail day 1

17-Aug- Mana Pools - Canoe Trail day 2
18-Aug- Mana Pools - Canoe Trail day 3
19-Aug- Mana Pools - Canoe Trail day 4
20-Aug- Mana Pools

21-Aug- Zambia South Luangwa

22-Aug- South Luangwa

23-Aug- South Luangwa
24-Aug- South Luangwa - Walking safari

25-Aug- South Luangwa - Walking safari

26-Aug- South Luangwa - Walking safari
27-Aug- South Luangwa - Walking safari
28-Aug- South Luangwa
29-Aug- South Luangwa

30-Aug- Kafue National Park
31-Aug- Kafue National Park
1-Sep- Kafue National Park

2-Sep- Botswana Chobe/Linyanti

3-Sep- Chobe/Linyanti

4-Sep- Chobe/Linyanti
5-Sep- Okavango Delta

6-Sep- Okavango Delta

7-Sep- Okavango Delta

8-Sep- Okavango Delta
9-Sep- Makgadikgadi

10-Sep- Makgadikgadi

11-Sep- Namibia Windhoek

12-Sep- Sossusvlei

13-Sep- Sossusvlei

14-Sep- Swakopmund

15-Sep- South Africa Johannesburg

16-Sep- Thornybush GR (self-drive or guided) OR Kruger Concession (Fly-in)

17-Sep- Thornybush GR (Panorama Route) Kruger Concession
18-Sep- Kruger Concession 1 Kruger Concession

19-Sep- Kruger Concession 1 Sabi Sands GR

20-Sep- Kruger Concession 1 Sabi Sands GR

21-Sep- Kruger Concession 2 Sabi Sands GR (Helicopter Panorama Route)

22-Sep- Kruger Concession 2 Sabi Sands GR

23-Sep- Garden Route - Port Elizabeth

24-Sep- Plettenberg Bay

25-Sep- Mossel Bay
26-Sep- Oudtshoorn

27-Sep- Robertson
28-Sep- Hermanus (whales)

29-Sep- Hermanus (sharks)

30-Sep- Stellenbosch
1-Oct- Stellenbosch

2-Oct-Sep- Cape Town

3-Oct- Cape Town - Table Mountain & Kirstenbosch

4-Oct- Cape Town - V&A Waterfront & Robben Island

5-Oct- Cape Town - Cape Point

6-Oct- Cape Town - West Coast
7-Oct- Cape Town - West Coast - wild flowers
8-Oct- Cape Town - Free day
9-Oct- Blue Train / Rovos to Johannesburg

10-Oct- Fly Home - JHB

The Safarniac Project

2012-10-27T18:09:00.001-04:00

This blog documents the design of the ultimate safarniac fix: a 100-day African safari to explore the very best wildlife experiences in each of the premier wildlife countries!

Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda, Tanzania, Malawi, Zambia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Namibia and South Africa.

The project will kick off on November 1 and the design part of the 100-day itinerary will be completed before Indaba 2012 (Durban, South Africa - May 12 to 15). The plan is to present the itinerary to at least one safari expert from each country to make sure we did not overlook anything!

Uganda Safari Itinerary - Nile River Rafting

2012-01-19T22:55:00.000-05:00

The Safarniac Project kicks off in Jinja, Uganda about 2 hours east of Kampala, for a day of white-water rafting on the Nile River. If the rush of rafting does not interest you, the Nile River is still a very interesting and incredibly beautiful place to visit and unwind after a long international flight. I will present an alternative itinerary later.

Kampala

Most people arrive at night at Entebbe Airport and I recommend an overnight in Kampala to make the 2-hour drive to Jinja a bit easier the next morning. Entebbe is SW of Kampala and traffic between the two places can be horrible.

Lodging in Kampala:

Kampala Serena - Stands out as the top choice for upscale travelers and it gets my vote. It is an attractive hotel that can truly be considered luxury (a rare find in East Africa). It is close to the main road to Jinja.

Le Petit Village - As part of a small shopping complex it is fairly nice if you do not want to stay in a typical high-rise hotel. It is south of the main road to Jinja and not in the city center.

Emin Pasha Hotel - OK 2nd choice if the Serena is unavailable. It is a bit too far to the north of the main road to Jinja and traffic can be challenging.

Jinja

It is a two-hour drive on a nice tarmac road from Kampala to Jinja and then you follow the Nile River for 15min to 45min on dirt roads to a series of lodges and camps along its banks. This afternoon is at leisure to get some sleep after the long international flight. Or rent an ATV with a guide and travel to some of the more interesting rapids that you will encounter on your full-day rafting adventure.

Next day is a full-day rafting adventure with lunch on an island about halfway. The adventure ends at a rapid called "the Bad Place" just across from Wild Waters Lodge.

Lodging in Jinja:

Wild Waters Lodge - My overwhelming favorite!

Cape Town Restaurants

2011-12-26T10:14:00.000-05:00

Where to eat & drink in Cape Town? This is such a difficult question to ask because in 10 days or less one want to experience EVERYTHING but you just cannot. One thing is for sure - tourists are often overly concerned about finding the best restaurants with the best wines and best service. I read on the internet how people spend many weeks discussing restaurant options with great passion on Fodors and elsewhere before their travels.

Is expensive food really the main attraction when traveling to Cape Town? How about joining local South Africans in neighborhood pubs and restaurants where you can find reasonably-priced good food while making new friends? Do you really want to spend night after night in top-end restaurants rubbing shoulders with mostly foreigners?

Sure, one can follow recommendations on Tripadvisor or read foodie magazines or search for recommendations by tour guides, the rich and the famous, and the thousands of internet bloggers who think they found the ultimate restaurants.

But often, you just have to take things as they come and eat where you are. If you unexpectedly find yourself sun burnt on a Clifton beach at sunset, then it makes no sense to rush over to Constantia for dinner in a formal 5* dining room. Just find a busy ocean-view restaurant in Camps Bay and hang out with the informal beach crowd while sharing cheap seafood platters and Martini's! These impromptu decisions often lead to the best experiences and you get to meet local South Africans at play - friendly interactions you will remember for much longer than the $200 meal you had at some fancy here-today-gone-tomorrow restaurant in an ally in the city center.

Nevertheless, it is good to go prepared with a list of 10 or so restaurants to try if the choices become overbearingly difficult after arrival.

To help me prepare my own top 10 list, here are some websites to read!

http://capefusiontours.com/ - Local tour-guide Pam lists some of her favorites
Tripadvisor Cape Town Restaurant reviews - Love it or hate it, Tripadvisor is the most popular review service out there!
http://www.eatout.co.za/ - Excellent food source! Look for their annual award lists and "best of..." guides!

Cape Town Itinerary Thoughts

2011-12-19T23:46:00.000-05:00

There will not be time for more than 10 days in Cape Town. Most probably only 5 or 6 days. With so much to see in one of the most beautiful cities in the world I will have a tough time picking the best of the best in the fairest Cape of them all!

Here is my list of Cape Town highlights (note, Hermanus and Winelands are part of the Garden Route drive):

Table Mountain & Kirstenbosch
V&A Waterfront and Robben Island
West Coast (an overnight to visit fishing villages and the wild flowers in season)
Beaches and Drives of the Atlantic
Beaches and Drives of False Bay
Constantia wineries and Southern Suburbs
Cape Point

I am going to plan for six busy days but may stay in the Western Cape for 7 or 8 nights if I decide to include the Cedarberg Mountains. Here is a summary of potential daily activities in no particular order. It is important to remain flexible because I want to visit Table Mountain on a clear day and see the wild flowers in sunshine.

Tourism links -

http://www.tourismcapetown.co.za

Day 1 - Table Mountain & Kirstenbosch

This will take a full day. The key is to be flexible and wait for a clear day to scale Table Mountain by Cable Car. Some people hike either up or down but due to personal safety concerns (hikers getting robbed) I prefer the cable car.

I think it is best to do Kirstenbosch in the morning while the sun is on that side of the mountain, followed by a late lunch nearby.

Kirstenbosch links -

http://www.sanbi.org/gardens/kirstenbosch

Then with a picnic basket (mostly wine and snacks) in hand, take the cable car to the top of Table Mountain and stay to watch the sun set over the Atlantic Ocean! Be sure to make it back in time for the last car down!

Table Mountain links -

http://tablemountain.net/
http://www.sanparks.org/parks/table_mountain/

Day 2 - V&A Waterfront & Robben Island

This will take a full day. The Waterfront is the heartbeat of Cape Town and one of the best places to stay if you want action and shopping in a safe environment. With so many shops, activities, restaurants and bars within easy walk of each other I plan to spend many hours here.

Waterfront Links -

http://www.waterfront.co.za/Pages/home.aspx

Robben Island is one of few activities that I will pre-book because it is so popular. It is important to take an official tour - there are many boat trips out there but you won't be able to disembark! It takes about 30 minutes on the boat each way and the tour lasts 2.5 hours on the island so plan for 4 hours. I plan to take the 9am ferry and to spend the afternoon strolling around the Waterfront complex.

Robben Island Links -

http://www.robben-island.org.za/

Day 3 & 4 - A two day tour of the West Coast (maybe longer to include the Cedarberg Mountains)

I plan to take my rental car and drive up to the Darling area (about an hour away) and beyond to view the spring wild flowers and to taste the fresh seafood along the very scenic Atlantic coast. In September the wild flowers should be in full bloom and wonderful to photograph. The big decision here is where to stay!

Darling links -

http://www.darlingtourism.co.za/

Another area to visit is the town of Paternoster and all the surrounding coastal villages. This is the place to go for fresh seafood and true west coast hospitality that is different from anywhere else in the country.

Paternoster Links -

http://www.paternoster.info/

While in the area, I will be tempted to return to Cape Town via the stunning Cedarberg Mountains. This area warrants at least a 2-night stay so I have some serious planning to do and decisions to make!

Cedarberg Mountains Links -

http://www.cederberg.com/

Day 5 - An epic drive to Cape Point

Today is sure to be a highlight of my visit to Cape Town. The plan is to hop in the rental car around 8am and drive west towards Muizenberg then on to Cape Point via Simon's Town. It will be a slow drive with lots of scenic stops as the road winds its way along the False Bay coast. This drive is great any time of the day but I prefer to be on the False Bay side in the morning when the wind is calm and sun lights up the mountains and beaches. Then in the afternoon I like the Atlantic side for the opposite effect!

The big decision today is where to stop for lunch! I will list a few of my favorite lunch spots later.

Cape Point Links -

http://www.capepoint.co.za/

On the way back from Cape Point, I will drive towards Kommetjie, then Hout Bay via Chapmans Peak, Camps Bay, Seapoint and arrive back at the Waterfront at around sunset!

Day 6 - An free day to take in different sights

I may explore the Castle of Good Hope, a museum or two, visit a winery or two near Constantia, drive back to Hout Bay but this time via the Constantia Neck and relax at a beach at Clifton or Camps Bay and take a late afternoon stroll along Seapoint Promenade.

Or I may decide to rise early and board the 7am great white shark diving expedition out of Simons Town for a half-day visit to Seal Island! Then I can visit a Constantia winery on the way back in the afternoon.

Assortment of Links -

http://www.apexpredators.com/
http://www.constantiavalley.com/
http://www.castleofgoodhope.co.za/

I know I can stay in Cape Town for a month and still leave with the feeling that I rushed my visit!

South Africa Wildlife

2011-11-01T14:11:00.002-04:00

Wildlife in South Africa

Obviously, for sharks, penguins and whales the place to be is the Western Cape. I discuss Cape Town and the Garden Route in different posts.

For big cats and other predators there is only place to go - the Kruger National Park and its surrounding concessions. However, if malaria is a concern (especially for young children and infants) then there are other options available - none as good as the Kruger area but pretty good considering the benefits.

South Africa wildlife enthusiasts will immediately point out that a few parks and reserves in Kwazulu-Natal are right up there with the greater Kruger and I do not disagree but with only 100 days available I have to be selective. Right now there are not enough days in the itinerary to include Hluhluwe Umfolozi and Phinda but these can be easily added as optional components to an extended South Africa safari.

The Greater Kruger National Park area and the scenic Panorama Route are included in the Safarniac 100-day itinerary. The challenge is three-fold:

1. How to combine the Panorama Route and Kruger in an acceptable week-long itinerary?
2. Where to stay in the greater Kruger area?
3. Self-drive or escorted, or fly-in?

I am the first to admit there is not "one perfect" Kruger itinerary! I can think of 20 or 50 ways to design a great safari to Kruger. But I have seen many horrible itineraries with people driving several hours each day just to get to and from the park gates. And on some weekends and holidays they they sit in line at the gates with some being turned away after the daily gate quota is reached - for example only 600 day visitors are allowed at Phalaborwa Gate during busy periods.

With things such as "daily quotas" in mind, visitors to Kruger should have a solid game plan before booking. Please be aware your travel agent may not have any knowledge of the area and you may end up in a lodge that is not a good match for your interests and budget.

Game Plan - Kruger National Park

A] The reality - endless options

It is a huge park! From Pafuri Gate in the north to Crocodile Bridge Gate in the south is 260 miles and takes about 17 hours by car! Clearly one cannot expect to experience all of Kruger in a day or two.

To the west of Kruger are miles and miles of private game reserves with no fences, meaning the wildlife can migrate across a vast area of woodlands, riverine thickets and open plains.

In early 2012 I counted 47 places to stay INSIDE Kruger from overnight hides to luxury private concessions. And to the west (OUTSIDE) of Kruger there are close to 150 lodging options in private reserves, ranging from basic self-catering rondavels to ultra-luxury bush camps. In addition, countless hotels, farm houses and bed-and-breakfast establishments dot the landscape in and around the many towns that border the wildlife areas.

It is easy to get overwhelmed with the choices but I have developed a simple system to narrow down the choices and to avoid planning burnout!

B] Decide what to see and do

In terms of the Safarniac project, Kruger faces tough competition after experiencing the wildebeest migration in the Serengeti and the Masai Mara, a walking safari in Zambia and the wonders of the Okavango Delta. But it offers an unique opportunity - to self-drive through one of the greatest parks in Africa and along a very scenic mountain "panorama" route.

Therefore, the Safarniac itinerary suggests a self-drive safari (with a twist as you will read below). If you do not want to self-drive, you can opt for one of two alternatives:

a) Private driver - your rental vehicle will come with a chauffeur who will drive/guide you during your Kruger stay
b) Top-end Fly-in safari - you will fly between your lodges and use the camp vehicles for game drives. Your Panorama Route visit will be privately guided by helicopter!

I describe all three options below. The self-drive or chauffeur-driven options follow the same itinerary - the only difference is you do not drive yourself. The fly-in option follow a slightly different itinerary. With only 7 nights available, keep the following in mind for the drive itinerary:

1. Two nights are needed to enjoy the Panorama Route because it takes all day and an early start is recommended. It is not safe for visitors to drive after dark in South Africa so the lodging has to be within easy reach of the route.
2. Five nights are left to experience the best of Kruger and with limited time I choose the lower half of Kruger south of the Olifants River to explore by vehicle. This area is known for its predators and large concentrations of general wildlife. One will generally see more wildlife (and people) in the southern half of the park than the north.

C] The Panorama Route

July to September is a great time to drive the Panorama Route because it is dry and the skies should be clear, whereas the views are often obscured by clouds and fog during the wet months.

The circular route is about 200 miles long and one needs a full day to take in all the sights and to stop for lunch. Driving at night is not recommended in South Africa so one has to start early and return to your hotel/lodge before dark.

There are many hotel, resort and B&B type accommodations in Graskop, Sabie and Hoedspruit - the gateways to the Panorama Route. But for the Safarniac Project I am always looking for a special place to stay and I decided the Thornybush Private Game Reserve is a much more unique base from where to explore the area. You can find a good B&B, hotel or resort anywhere in the world, but only inside a game reserve can you hear wildlife at night and experience a typical South African safari before and after exploring the Panorama Route.

Jackalberry Lodge is close to the Thornybush entry gate which makes it a perfect upscale choice for two nights in the region near the Panorama Route. Remember it is crucial to leave early and to make it back before dark so only a few safari lodges are viable options.

For the best landscape photo opportunities I suggest an early morning drive south on R40 from the Hoedspruit area to Graskop and down to Sabie. The mountains will light up in the morning sun as you shoot with the sun over your shoulder. Heading north later in the day the views toward the east from famous view points such as "three rondavels" will be colorful in the warm afternoon glow as the sun sets behind you.

The Safarniac drive itinerary suggests an early afternoon arrival at Jackalberry Lodge in Thornybush followed by an afternoon/evening game drive and dinner. The next day is a full-day self-drive or guided exploration of the Panorama Route. Another afternoon game drive is possible in case of an early arrival back at the lodge. On the final day there is time for a morning game drive before departing for Orpen Gate and Kruger.

D] Entering Kruger

The Orpen Gate (within easy reach of Hoedspruit Eastgate Airport) is the best entry point for the Safarniac drive itinerary that includes both the Panorama Route and the central Kruger.

Kruger Gate will also work but it is inconvenient for the Panorama Route given the parameters I described above.

E] Avoiding the crowds in Kruger

There are 33 places to stay in the southern Kruger and five of these are classified as Main Rest Camps. Most self-drive visitors stay at these large rest camps and every morning they drive out in convoy along the main roads.

To avoid this game-viewing circus, I suggest staying in private concessions inside Kruger that are located away from the main rest camps. There are 15 lodges and camps in seven such concessions in the southern half of the park. These lodges offer short and multi-day walks, guided day and evening game drives and private traversing areas away from the crowds. So one has the freedom to choose between self-drives or shared game drives guided by professionals.

I suggest to split the concession stays into 2 nights in the south central area and 3 nights in the southern area of Kruger.

In terms of location, services and activities my choices for the Safarniac Project (drive itinerary) are Rhino Post Safari Lodge (3 nights) and Singita Lebombo (2 nights). Staying at Rhino Post allows for excursions down to the very southern end of Kruger while Lebombo covers the central part of the southern half of Kruger. This is great coverage of the most prolific game-viewing areas in Kruger. And the camps are great with consistent great reviews. If the budget does not allow for a Singita stay then Hoyo Hoyo Tsonga Lodge will be a great substitute.

F] Getting to Kruger from Johannesburg

It is a 6 to 7 hour drive depending on the entrance gate. It is a nice drive over good roads but it takes too long and Johannesburg traffic can be a serious problem. A flight takes about an hour and is much more convenient.

Most convenient airport at Kruger.

a) If you have a virtually unlimited budget I suggest a charter flight to the airstrip closest to your lodge.
b) The second best option is with a Federal Air scheduled (shared) charter direct from OR Tambo to one of several airstrips.
b) A third option is a scheduled flight on SAA Airlink to either Hoedspruit Eastgate or Nelspruit KMIA airport. From KMIA, there are bush connections (Federal Air, FlyBateleur, etc) to popular airstrips inside Kruger or in the concessions. For the Safarniac drive itinerary it is best to fly to Hoedspruit, then rent a car.

The drive from Eastgate Airport to Thornybush will take only 30 minutes or so.

G] OPTIONAL - Fly-in safari

Most overseas visitors with upscale budgets book this style of safari to the Kruger area. They fly from Johannesburg to an airstrip near the lodge and are met and transferred by their camp guides. Some fly from Johannesburg to Nelspruit and take a Federal Air shuttle flight to their lodge airstrip.

The Safarniac itinerary allows for this fly-in option instead of the self-or guided drive suggestion.

1. The first three nights will be at Singita Lebombo. I chose Lebombo because it is the top upscale option inside Kruger National Park.
3. Next you will fly to Lion Sands Private Game Reserve for a 4-night stay in one of the top lodges in South Africa - Ivory Lodge. It is the perfect combination of luxury, very productive game drives and excellent guiding. The problem is - how to visit the Panorama Route while staying in Sabi Sands? It is too far to drive. The solution - a helicopter excursion to Sabie where a private guide will meet you and drive you via the Panorama Route to Hoedspruit Airport. Your helicopter will be waiting to fly you back to your lodge!
4. At the end of your stay you will fly back to Johannesburg and connect to your flight to Port Elizabeth.

Namibia Design

2011-11-01T13:50:00.000-04:00

When I think about Namibia I do not consider it a prime wildlife destination but the desert ecosystems are certainly a must for any 100-day itinerary.

Namib-Naukluft is huge and I will probably focus on the Sossusvlei area. Etosha is an obvious candidate for consideration.

The Bushmen are of interest to me and I would like to include some authentic interaction with them.

Ideas and suggestions are most welcome!

Zambia Design

2011-11-01T13:40:00.000-04:00

Victoria Falls will be a must on the 100-day safari. I think 2 nights here will be enough to see the falls without getting sick of the many tourists.

I am also thinking of including a multi-day walking safari since Zambia is really the birthplace of the modern-day walking safari.

Liuwa Plain NP, Kafue, Lower Zambezi, South and North Luanga are all great wildlife places and choosing where to go will not be easy!

Victoria Falls

Here is a map:

I am not interested to stay on island resorts or at waterfront properties or participate in boat rides during this short visit to the Falls. I will seen enough wildlife during the other 98 days on safari and need to stay close to the falls to make the most of photo opportunities during the day. I do not want to be shuttled to the Falls with loads of other tourists in buses or minivans. Instead, I would like to be able to walk there whenever I want.

So I have to decide between staying on the Zimbabwe or Zambia side in one of the large hotels within walking distance. I am leaning towards Zimbabwe because it has a larger area of the Falls to explore and the water levels are dropping in September.

After looking at the map, I have narrowed it down to one of the following hotels (in order of my preference) for a two-night stay:

Ilala Lodge - only 30-something rooms so not too big and nearest to the Falls on the Zimbabwe side
Victoria Falls Hotel - with 161 rooms it is a bit more luxurious than the Kingdom
Kingdom Hotel - almost 300 rooms so it is big with OK rooms
Royal Livingstone - best hotel on the Zambia side that is close to the Falls
Zambezi Sun - nearest to the Falls on the Zambia side but with so-so reviews on Tripadvisor

I am not too particular about my own stay at the Falls but I wonder which of the hotels on my short-list can truly be called the best overall hotel for a short stay?

Botswana Design

2011-11-01T13:33:00.000-04:00

I have no illusions about Botswana and the difficulties I am going to face when I have to decide on the final itinerary!

It will not be easy to decide between the many excellent wildlife areas but in the end I will have to narrow it down to 10 days or so in this great wildlife country.

Zimbabwe Design

2011-11-01T13:28:00.000-04:00

I am not familiar with Zimbabwe wildlife parks and need ideas and suggestions!

I am familiar with the political situation in Zimbabwe and I understand the sentiments for and against supporting this troubled country. I am not political and my concerns are 100% for its wildlife and especially the people who care for the wildlife which are under enormous pressure from the lack of support from the governing regime.

I have made the decision to include Zimbabwe in the 100-day itinerary and I hope we see changes in the government within the foreseeable future.

Tanzania Design

2011-11-01T13:12:00.000-04:00

Like Kenya, Tanzania is a big country with many excellent parks. The biggest challenge is not figuring out where to go but what to leave out!

For Chimpanzees, I think Mahale offers the best overall experience in Africa in terms of remoteness, scenery and sightings. It is an expensive place to visit due to its remoteness but the long flight is worth every penny. Gombe Stream may be better known but Mahale offers more, especially when combined with nearby Katavi Park for excellent general wildlife.

So Mahale is high on my list of "must-sees" in Africa. If time permits I will combine it with Katavi.

The Serengeti is also a must-see and in July the Northern Serengeti is the place to be so it will also make my itinerary.

Ngorongoro Crater is crowded and I do not like to share my sightings with a convoy of vehicles but it is one of the most incredible sights one can hope to see in life so I will include it but two nights here will be plenty.

Tarangire, Arusha National Park and Manyara are considered by many to be "secondary parks" on the Northern Safari Circuit of Tanzania and as much as I like Tarangire, they will probably not make the final itinerary.

Instead, I think the Southern parks and reserves are more applicable for this project. I will have to choose between Ruaha and Selous and my vote will probably go for Selous because it offers something different - water-based safaris and a good chance to see wild dogs.

The north coast of Zanzibar may be a good place to relax for 3 nights or so between safaris. I prefer Kendwa because the beaches are not subject to tidal reefs and offer 24-hour awimming!

Kenya Design

2011-11-01T12:27:00.002-04:00

The Masai Mara is a must-see in July/August and will be included in the Project. I imagine 4 - 5 nights in the Mara perhaps split between staying inside the Mara and in a conservancy. To see Mara River crossings it will be better to stay inside the Mara as close to the river as possible because the conservancies charge extra park fees for trips to the river. In some cases it takes 2 hours or more to drive to the river where crossings happen.

But the conservancies are great to avoid the crowds, night game drives, walks, etc.

I am not interested in tourist traps such as Treetops and the Ark in Aberdares. East Tsavo is too close to Mombasa and gets too many convoys of minibuses with tourists on packaged vacations. Tsavo West is a remote possibility if time permits. Lake Nakuru and Lake Naivasha are both fine places to visit but the crowds of minibuses just do not work for me. These parks are close to Nairobi and on the main tourist circuits. Shaba and Meru simply do not have enough wildlife to warrant participation in the Project.

I am thinking to include Amboseli or nearby for 2 nights to shoot the quintessential Kilimanjaro panorama.

Laikipia and/or Samburu are both on my list to see "exotic" species such as reticulated giraffe, grevy's zebra, somali ostrich, generuk, etc.

I like the activities at Laikipia versus Samburu and the idea of meeting hordes of minibuses in Samburu (thanks to the many large lodges) does not appeal to me so I think I will go for combining Laikipia, Amboseli and the Masai Mara for the Kenya part of the itinerary!

But time will tell!

Uganda Design

2011-11-01T10:51:00.002-04:00

Uganda is a difficult country to define in terms of attractions, services, infrastructure and wildlife. I want to be supportive of its efforts to market itself as a prime safari destination but after many visits to the country I also have to be honest.

1. The country has serious infrastructure problems. The roads between and inside the parks are often horrible and it seems at times as if the government does not care about its parks. The game roads are badly planned and maintained and there are no attempts to control the tsetse flies even at popular tourist stops such as Murchison Falls. Internal flights are not convenient and expensive charters are just about the only way to fly.

2. Most local tour operators are focused on budget travel with older vehicles, badly designed itineraries and untrained guides. Only a small handful are equipped and trained to deliver guiding services that are on par with Kenya and Tanzania operators. Uganda tour operators need to change the way they look at tourism and they need to demand more infrastructure support from the government.

3. Predators are not easy to see in the parks. Sure, one can see lion in Queen Elizabeth but in the northern section you will be surrounded by other vehicles who rush out early every morning in convoy to see one of the few prides in a specific area. In the south, the tree-climbing lions are a challenge to see close-up due to the lack of game roads.

On the other hand, the chimpanzee experience at Ngamba is very fulfilling while Kibale Forest is certainly one of the three best places in Africa to see them in the wild. Budongo Forest and Kyambura Gorge are secondary places to see chimpanzees.

Gorillas in Bwindi need no introduction. It is a great experience but reaching Bwindi is not easy if one is short on time. It is a long 12-hour drive from Entebbe.

Birding is one of Uganda's biggest attractions and the Kazinga Channel in QEP is a prime destination. I may include QEP for this reason.

The challenge is this: For the Safarniac Project I have to choose between Mahale, Ngamba, Kibale and Gombe Stream for chimpanzee trekking. For gorillas it is between Bwindi and Parc des Volcans (in Rwanda).

In Uganda, I think white water rafting on the Nile at Jinja is a must for the Project as well as an overnight on Ngamba Island in order to support the chimpanzee efforts. Birding at Kazinga and Murchison Falls is an activity to consider.

Rwanda Design

2011-10-31T23:52:00.001-04:00

Rwanda is a very scenic (but populated) country. It is not a big country and the main roads are very good so one can drive from one end to the other in a long day or so!

I am thinking of including Kigali and Parc des Volcans in the 100-day itinerary. It seems 4-nights are enough to do two gorilla treks and some sightseeing.

Other areas to consider:

Akagera - This park desperately needs more visitors to ensure its future. I may consider visiting just for this reason and to help raise awareness but the truth is the wildlife is not nearly up to the standards of other parks in the itinerary.

Nyungwe Forest - A great place to see different primates but the walking can be difficult and several days are needed to get good sightings. For this reason I will probably not include it in the itinerary.

South Africa Garden Route

2011-10-31T23:38:00.002-04:00

Garden Route thoughts.

I want to include the Garden Route for the scenery and ocean wildlife. There are several wildlife parks along the Garden Route and especially near Port Elizabeth but by now I would've seen just about everything in the great parks of Africa so this will be a good time to focus more on the ocean, beaches, wineries, sharks, whales, small coastal and Karoo towns and the great mountain passes of the Garden Route.

I think it will be best to fly to Port Elizabeth, rent a car and then drive west towards Cape Town. I like the idea of driving in the mornings with the sun behind me for better photography and with the ocean on my left (while driving on the left side).

Am thinking of the following overnights before arriving in Cape Town:

Plettenberg Bay - bungy jumping, ocean views, etc.
Mossel Bay - watching the surfers from the deck of an oceanfront restaurant at the Point is an underrated Garden Route experience. Do not let negative guide books misguide you about Mossel Bay. It is a working South African coastal village - not a tourist trap
Oudtshoorn (2 nights) - drive to Prince Albert. Cango Caves
Robertson - wineries, visit Montagu
Hermanus (2 nights) - whale watching and shark diving
Stellenbosch (2 nights) - visit Franschoek, wineries. Another wonderfully real South African town - not a tourist trap

Other towns to consider for overnights are:

Jeffreys Bay - I am a fan of surfing but the town itself does not do much for me.

Knysna - A pretty town and very popular with overseas tourists who will not understand why I do not want to overnight there! But I think it is too busy and touristy. I like to have ocean views and can easily visit Knysna while staying in Plet.

George - I am not a golfer so Fancourt and other golf resorts are less attractive to me.

Swellendam - Good restaurants but I would like to visit some wineries near Robertson and taste some brandy!

Gansbaai (Grootbos) - Closer to the shark diving but too far from Hermanus for close-up whale watching.

Franschoek - Another town with a huge overseas following! I like the surrounding area much more than I like the town! There are great restaurants in town and the main street is cute but easily seen in less than an hour. Will visit here to taste the town, but Stellenbosch and vicinity is more authentic in my opinion with more choices of wineries, shops, bars and restaurants.

Itinerary - Version 1

2011-10-27T23:18:00.005-04:00

Here is version 1 of a possible itinerary for the 100-day Safarniac Safari!

The idea is to visit every area as close to its prime time as possible!

2-Jul- Kenya Nairobi

3-Jul- Uganda Jinja

4-Jul- Jinja Nile river rafting

5-Jul- Entebbe

6-Jul- Ngamba Island Chimpanzee walk

7-Jul- Rwanda Kigali

8-Jul- Parc des Volcans

9-Jul- Parc des Volcans Gorillas

10-Jul- Kigali Gorillas

11-Jul- Tanzania Ngorongoro

12-Jul- Ngorongoro

13-Jul- Mahale

14-Jul- Mahale Chimpanzees

15-Jul- Mahale Chimpanzees

16-Jul- Mahale Chimpanzees

17-Jul- Katavi

18-Jul- Katavi

19-Jul- Katavi

20-Jul- Central Serengeti

21-Jul- Central Serengeti

22-Jul- North Serengeti

23-Jul- North Serengeti

24-Jul- North Serengeti

25-Jul- Kenya Nairobi

26-Jul- Amboseli

27-Jul- Amboseli

28-Jul- Laikipia

29-Jul- Laikipia

30-Jul- Laikipia

31-Jul- Masai Mara Migration

1-Aug- Masai Mara

2-Aug- Masai Mara

3-Aug- Masai Mara

4-Aug- Tanzania Zanzibar

5-Aug- Zanzibar

6-Aug- Zanzibar

7-Aug- Selous

8-Aug- Selous

9-Aug- Selous

10-Aug- South Africa Johannesburg

11-Aug- Zimbabwe Victoria Falls

12-Aug- Victoria Falls

13-Aug- Hwange

14-Aug- Hwange

15-Aug- Hwange

16-Aug- Mana Pools

17-Aug- Mana Pools

18-Aug- Mana Pools

19-Aug- Malawi South Malawi

20-Aug- South Malawi

21-Aug- Zambia North Luanda

22-Aug- North Luanda

23-Aug- South Luanda

24-Aug- South Luanda

25-Aug- South Luanda

26-Aug- Botswana Chobe

27-Aug- Chobe

28-Aug- Okavango Delta

29-Aug- Okavango Delta

30-Aug- Okavango Delta

31-Aug- Makgadikgadi

1-Sep- Makgadikgadi

2-Sep- Namibia Windhoek

3-Sep- Sossusvlei

4-Sep- Sossusvlei

5-Sep- Swakopmund

6-Sep- South Africa Johannesburg

7-Sep- Kruger Area

8-Sep- Kruger Area

9-Sep- Kruger Area

10-Sep- Kruger Area

11-Sep- Zululand

12-Sep- Zululand

13-Sep- Phinda

14-Sep- Phinda

15-Sep- Port Elizabeth

16-Sep- Plettenberg Bay Garden Route

17-Sep- Oudtshoorn

18-Sep- Hermanus Whales

19-Sep- Hermanus

20-Sep- Stellenbosch

21-Sep- Cape Town

22-Sep- Cape Town

23-Sep- Cape Town

24-Sep- Cape Town

25-Sep- Blue Train / Rovos

26-Sep- Fly Home - JHB

27-Sep-